EV Costs Comparison
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How accurate are these calculators?

Honest answer: as accurate as the numbers you put in. Here's exactly how they work.

Every tool on this site uses simple, published arithmetic — no black boxes, no "proprietary models". This page sets out the formulas, the assumptions behind the defaults, and the things we deliberately leave out so you can judge the results for yourself.

The core formulas

  • EV running cost = (distance ÷ 100) × efficiency (kWh/100km) × electricity price per kWh.
  • Fuel running cost = (distance ÷ 100) × consumption (L/100km) × pump price per litre.
  • Home charging cost = energy added ÷ 0.9 × price per kWh — the ÷0.9 covers the ~10% lost as heat during AC charging, so you pay for what comes out of the wall.
  • CO₂ comparison = fuel litres × 2.31 kg (petrol) or 2.68 kg (diesel), versus EV kWh × your country's grid emissions factor.

Countries that use miles, MPG or dollars-per-gallon are converted internally at exact factors (1 mile = 1.609344 km; US gallon = 3.785 L; imperial gallon = 4.546 L), so the maths is identical everywhere.

Where the default figures come from

Defaults are drawn from public national data for the country you select — energy regulators, government emissions factors and motoring-body fuel monitors (AER, ACCC and the National Greenhouse Accounts in Australia; MBIE and the AA in New Zealand; Ofgem and RAC in the UK; EIA and AAA in the US, and so on). Each calculator links its sources. They're national averages from 2026 data — a sensible starting point, not your bill.

Assumptions worth knowing

  • Charging efficiency is fixed at 90%; real-world losses range roughly 5–15% depending on charger and conditions.
  • The road-trip tool assumes you leave home ~90% charged, fast-charge in 20–80% windows, and average about 35 minutes per stop.
  • The novated lease tool uses 2025–26 Australian tax brackets (including the 2% Medicare levy), ATO statutory minimum residuals, and the EV FBT exemption rules. It excludes lease-company fees and margins, which vary widely — treat a real quote as the source of truth.
  • Grid emissions factors are national averages; regional grids (Canadian provinces, US states, Australian states) can differ a lot.

What we deliberately leave out

Purchase price, depreciation, insurance, registration, servicing and tyres. These vary so much by model and driver that including "averages" would create false precision. Most calculators answer one question well — what does the energy cost? — and leave whole-of-life comparisons to you. The one exception is the break-even tool, which exists precisely to weigh the purchase premium against those energy savings (it still excludes depreciation, and says so). Two known gaps worth flagging: New Zealand EVs pay Road User Charges (~$76 per 1,000 km) that aren't included, and time-of-use tariffs mean your effective rate depends on when you charge.

So how far off could the result be?

If you use the defaults, treat results as a solid ballpark — typically within 10–20% for the energy-cost comparisons, driven mostly by how much electricity and fuel prices vary around the national average. If you enter your own tariff, your car's real consumption and your local fuel price, the arithmetic itself is exact; the remaining uncertainty is just how your driving varies month to month.

Keeping it honest

Prices move — especially fuel. We review the defaults periodically against the sources above and bump the figures when they drift. If you spot a number that looks out of date, we genuinely want to know: tell us via the contact details on the homepage.

EV Costs Comparison

Free, independent EV cost comparison tools for Australian drivers. Estimates only; not financial advice. Always check current prices with your retailer.

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